Plants play a critical role in healthy aquatic ecosystems and can benefit your water garden in many ways, whether it’s the size of a small water bucket or an entire lake!
This article focuses on the former; that is, small ponds such as mini bowls, bucket ponds, patio ponds, and very modest water gardens which have limited space, but would still benefit from a range of easy to care for plant species. Although many pond plants tend to grow quite large, we’ve researched and chosen in this article some of the best smaller species perfect for smaller-scale planting.
As well as looking great, these plants come with a huge amount of benefits to keep your little pond and native wildlife happy, so there is little reason not to include them!
Why Are Plants Important in Small Ponds?
Not only do plants add to the overall aesthetic, they also provide functions that would typically not be as efficient if replicated by other means. Perhaps most importantly, they oxygenate the water, which is in turn tied to many other things. Properly oxygenated water allows for the survival of fish and any other organisms that decide to visit or settle in your pond, however small it may be.
With the establishment of these critters, your pond can become a functioning mini ecosystem! They can help to control insect populations, feed on algae, and form mutualistic (that is, mutually beneficial) relationships with each other. For example, the relationship between fish and flowering plants – ponds that have fish tend to be surrounded by more flowering plants, and a greater diversity of them as well. This is because those fish feed on insects that would otherwise demolish the plants, thus allowing the plants to flower and other important insects, like bees and butterflies (both of which are declining rapidly worldwide), to pollinate the plants. This in turn assists in the survival of the pollinators as well as the plants!
In addition, plants will help to control algae and phytoplankton by filtering any excess nutrients and pollutants that algae would thrive on, as well as shading the water and limiting the amount of light available to these potentially harmful microorganisms (please refer to our article that covers the types of microorganisms found in ponds to review which ones are considered harmful and helpful). As a result, your pond’s residents and visitors, be they fish, newts, salamanders, butterflies, birds, and so on, will benefit greatly, in turn attracting other organisms and wildlife that can turn your pond or water garden into a balanced, beautiful microhabitat.
Dwarf water lilies do best in anywhere from 1 to 18 inches of water, and can be white, pink, purple, yellow, or some combination thereof. They look almost exactly like standard water lilies, but are obviously much smaller with leaves and blooms that are only a couple of inches across. Their rhizomes are quite delicate and fleshy, so they shouldn’t be planted in stones that could harm them. These fragile rhizomes do, however, make dwarf water lilies very easy to trim back if they start to multiply too much for your liking or take up too much space in the water. They do best in full sun to partial shade.
2) Water Hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes)
One of the most popular and easy to grow floating plants, water hyacinth is able to adapt to just about any size ecosystem that it’s in, able to grow to only a few inches in height and diameter or closer to a meter. They have gorgeous, eye-catching lavender colored flowers and glossy, broad leaves. The ease with which they grow and adapt is both a boon and a burden – they can grow quickly and overtake the water and other plants, but the perk of having a small pond or micro-bowl is that it’s quite simple to monitor this and keep them trimmed so that they don’t cause an issue.
An added bonus is that water hyacinth is exceptional at filtering water, outcompeting algae for nutrients, and is also one of the most adept plants at removing excess nitrogen and controlling ammonia levels! However, it’s also an invasive plant in most areas, so make certain that you do not plant it if there is potential for it to spread outside of your pond or if it’s illegal in your area to have it.
3) Water Lettuce (Pistia stratiotes)
Water lettuce produces small leaves that develop into a swirling rosette shape (hence the name “lettuce”), and like water hyacinth will grow to suit their environment’s size. Their roots provide food and spawning areas for fish, while their thick leaves add oxygen to the water and provide a charming floating aesthetic. It also grows quickly, and some of it will need to be removed from time to time to keep it in check. Start by planting a small cutting (with a stolon attached) and either letting it sit free floating in the water or anchor the stolon in some form of substrate. You can also simply plant a seed or two in the substrate.
As with all marginal plants, corkscrew rush can exist either in shallow water or moist soil. It’s quite a unique little plant, smaller than most other rushes and with thin, green curly spiraling stems that will add some distinctive flair to your pond. This plant was derived from the soft rush (Juncus effusus), which can also be suitable for small ponds as well as micro-bowls, but soft rush is capable of growing several feet in height and so may need to be trimmed down, whereas corkscrew rush will tend to stay shorter due to its leaves growing in a curled as opposed to straight fashion.
2) Sweet Flag (Acorus calamus)
Sweet flag’s name was coined from the sweet, fragrant scent that it produces when bruised, cut, or otherwise damaged. With bright green and yellow grass-like leaves, this marginal plant makes a vibrant addition to any pond and can be grown in either small or large clumps, making it ideal for any pond size. However, it is important to note that some species of sweet flag are invasive to North America and Europe (only Acorus calamus and Acorus Americanus are known to be native to these continents), so be sure to choose these species over Japanese sweet flag species. There are also dwarf varieties available, which would be well suited to micro-bowls. Sweet flag can be planted in either full sun or partial shade.
3) Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia)
It’s obvious why creeping jenny is a favorite among pond garden owners – this small marginal plant likes to grow on rocks and logs, draping over them to flow on top of the water’s edge in a splash of bright green. It’s very low maintenance and grows to only 1 to 3 inches in height, and is unlikely to extend too far beyond the edge of the pond, so it won’t overtake other plants or crowd the water. If it does happen to grow too much for your liking, it’s very easy to remove. It’s also hardy, suitable for both cool (as low as 59°F) and warm water (up to 75°F).
4) Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis)
As its name suggests, cardinal flowers have striking, immensely vibrant scarlet flowers that will attract a large variety of pollinators and hummingbirds to your pond. Around small ponds, you can simply plant them in the damp soil right on the edge of your pond, and in the case of water gardens and micro ponds, you can place them in miniature pots an inch or two below the water’s surface. It does well in shady environments, though partial sun is fine, and will grow from 1 to 4 feet in height (so be sure to incorporate it toward the back of your water feature so that it doesn’t block your view of anything). It’s hardy, able to grow in climates as northerly as Canada and as far south as Columbia.
Also known as elodea, anacharis is suitable for any pond size, large or tiny, so long as the water is at least a few inches deep. In the case of very small ponds, place them in small pots so that the plants remain small and don’t outgrow the pond. They have bright, feathery leaves that help to oxygenate the water and keep it clean, while also providing a favorite place for invertebrates and small juvenile fish, and produce tiny white flowers that float atop the water’s surface. These leaves will often extend to the water’s surface and spread out, so you’ll likely need to trim them back from time to time.
2) Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)
A submerged free-floating plant, hornwort doesn’t have roots and can either be allowed to float about or anchored down. In the case of very small ponds, such as bucket ponds or bowl ponds, placing them in a tiny pot at the bottom of the water may work best – this will keep them from spreading in the tiny area. Hornworts, like most submerged plants, are excellent oxygenators and purifiers. In addition, hornworts and some other bryophytes secrete substances that inhibit algal growth, thus further aiding in purifying the water.
What pond plants are safe
For cats? I want to build a small patio water feature that will have a waterfall like feature. Will water running over the plants damage them?
Hi Susan,
Would these be emergent plants along the edge of your pond? If you plan on having floating or submerged plants, these shouldn’t be a problem for cats as they’re very unlikely to go into the water.
What plants are you planning on having with the waterfall? Plants that have been found to do well with waterfall features include watercress, lemon bacopa, and creeping jenny. Water mint can also be trained to drape over edges, like that of waterfalls, so long as the water isn’t too strong.
You can find more info on watercress here: https://pondinformer.com/watercress-nasturtium-officinale/
Lemon bacopa: https://pondinformer.com/lemon-bacopa-bacopa-caroliniana/
Water mint: https://pondinformer.com/water-mint-mentha-aquatica/
I am planning a pond in a butler sink. What would be the best plants to put into this pond and how many?
Do I need aquatic compost and pot baskets?
Thank you
George
Hi George,
What a wonderful idea for a container pond! That’ll look quite nice once it’s done!
Whether or not you’ll need plant baskets depends on the plant – for dwarf water lily, for example, you will not need one, but for aquatic mint you would. Both of these make excellent plants for small container ponds, as well! Creeping jenny is quite a nice one as well, and also has vibrant yellow flowers. Both aquatic mint and creeping jenny can be trained to trail over the edge of the sink, for added aesthetic while not taking up too much space in the water itself.
If you’d like some more tips regarding container ponds and how to plant in them, feel free to check out our article on the topic here: https://pondinformer.com/best-container-pond-plants/
I put a bought potted water lily into my pond which has 6 goldfish in it. The water has gone muddy, so that was disappointing. More importantly will the goldfish be ok? Thanks
Comment/question. I have a small garden pond and due to the hot weather there is a lot of algae which is unsightly. I don’t want to use chemicals but have heard that there are pond plants that can solve this problem. Your expert advice with this problem would be most welcome. Thank you. R. Miles.
Hi R. Miles,
A combination of floating and submerged plants would likely work best. The floating plants will help to shade out some of the algae, while the submerged plants will aid in filtering the water and re-oxygenating it. I’m not sure where you’re located, so certainly do some research on what species are native to your area, but water lettuce (this one in particular is known to inhibit the growth of algae), water lotus, and water lilies all work well to help provide some shade and outcompete algae.
Hornwort, fanwort, eelgrass (vallisneria), marsh mermaid weed, and water wisteria are all submerged plants that are excellent at generating dissolved oxygen, which is essential when dealing with algae as they tend to use up a great deal of the water’s oxygen supply as they grow and spread. Hornwort in particular is allelopathic, releasing a very particular combination of bio-chemicals that studies have found target different types of algae.
For added measure, you could also incorporate some emergent plants along your pond’s edge to further filter the water (and these will also be able to better filter out pollutants and fertilizers that would otherwise runoff into your pond). Again, the plants that you should use depends on your location, but watercress, cattails (most definitely check on which species are native in your area – any invasive varieties will quickly take over), scouring rush (equisetum species), American water plantain, bog bean, purple lobelia (this one has the added bonus of being quite beautiful), cardinal flower (also very beautiful), and lemon bacopa. Lemon bacopa and watercress are both *very* good at filtering out excess phosphorous and nitrogen, both things that algae feed on, and they smell and look quite nice, as well.
I’ve included a few of our plant profile articles, as well, if you’d like more info on some of the species that I mentioned:
https://pondinformer.com/water-lettuce-pistia-stratiotes/
https://pondinformer.com/hornwort-ceratophyllum-demersum/
https://pondinformer.com/american-water-plantain-alisma-subcordatum/
https://pondinformer.com/lemon-bacopa-bacopa-caroliniana/
https://pondinformer.com/watercress-nasturtium-officinale/
https://pondinformer.com/cardinal-flower-lobelia-cardinalis/
https://pondinformer.com/bog-bean-menyanthes-trifoliata/
Hi I’ve just recently put a small wildlife pond in our garden it’s 1.4m long and 800cm wife with a deepest point of 40cm I was looking for advice on best plants to keep it oxygenated? The pond has no pump/filter and will never have one.
Recently bought to large plants on wood from pets at home as everywhere else was closed and advised they would be suitable for a pond but they seem to be dying!!
Any help much appreciated
I have Waterweed, Hornwort, duckweed, arrowheads and Hyacinths. The Waterweed grows like crazy even through the winter, same with the Hornwort. I being the Arrowheads inside when the weather gets cool and put them out in the spring. They are great oxygenators and the fish love them. If you are putting fish in your pond, I strongly suggest an aerator at least. Obviously a pump and filter would be best.
Hi Chris,
We echo what Alaina said – all of the plants she mentioned work great for oxygenating the water, and pump/filter combo would of course help greatly as well. Some other great oxygenators include water wisteria, eelgrass, water lettuce, and marsh mermaid weed. Some of these (hornwort and waterweed, as mentioned, but also waster wisteria) can grow quite quickly, so it may actually be beneficial to add some goldfish if you don’t already have them. Not always, but oftentimes they enjoy munching on these plants and help keep them from spreading so quickly. Manually trimming them a couple of times per year works just fine, too!
We’ve actually got an article on some great water oxygenating species, which can be found here if you’re interested: https://pondinformer.com/best-oxygenating-pond-plants/
I love your site! I’m planning to fill and plant an old white butler’s sink as a small container pond in the garden and you have answered all my questions about plants. A friend has also promised me a cut down old zinc water cistern so that will give me further scope.
When filling the container with water for the first time is it alright to use tap water or is rainwater really best?
Thank you.
Hi Sarah,
We’re so glad that you’re enjoying the site! Thank you for the kind words 🙂 A small butler’s sink will look great as a container pond!
In terms of using rainwater or tap water, that’s largely a matter of personal preference! Neither is really any better or worse than the other, overall. Rainwater is, of course, free and readily available, and often viewed as more “natural.” However, by nature of the water cycle and human activities, rainwater can contain pollutants, acids, and other potentially harmful substances. It also tends to be soft, which is often good for ponds but if it’s too soft you’ll need to bump up the KH (though this can be said for tap water, as well). Tap water is a more easily controlled choice – just make sure to add dechlorinator first and test the water quality before and after adding it. Regardless of which you use, it’s a good idea to add some beneficial bacteria to the pond to help it balance out with the new water and take care of any newly introduced compounds or organisms.
We’re just developing a rockery area in our garden and embedding 3 tiny ‘ponds’ into it: 2 halves of an old fire pit (bowl and lid) and an old paella dish.
They’re very shallow, 3 – 10cm deep, max, and only 30 – 50cm across.
What plants, if any, can we include? (Not planning on putting any fish in!)
Thanks!
Hi Beckie
Great information on this site 🙂 Ive recently bought a 50 gallon raised pond and I’m hoping to make it a nice little home for a few goldfish. Which plants would you recommend? Any other tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
Julie
Hello Beckie,
I am updating my pond and would like to add plants to it. I had some cattails but they are very aggressive and and take much space on my small pond. I did like they came back every year. I live in north Texas and we have hard summers and winters in the 40/50s. I will add about 2 fish when I am done with the renovation. I will make a ledge on my rectangular pond for the plants. I would like the plants to hide the wall behind them. I am not sure how deep to make the ledge or the plants to add to it. I was thinking of 1 1/2 feet deep but can change it depending on your advice. I would appreciate your help since I have no idea which plants will be ideal for full sun, kind of small pod 6ftx3ft and low maintenance that will come back every summer and maybe even live through winter. Thanks in advanced for your advice.
Hi Daisily,
Thanks for reading and commenting! I’m afraid that my response will be a bit lengthy, as I want to cover as much as I can here to hopefully help you out.
I understand your struggle with cattails! Even the native varieties can spread quite quickly and be hard to control. I spent a while researching marginal plants that are native to your area and that should return year after year, while also surviving the mild winters. They should each also do just fine in full sun. I’m going to list each plant that I think may be a good fit, and include a bit of further info next to each so that you can make an informed decision. For some of these plants, we have actually written in-depth articles on them; I’ll include the links for more info if you’d like to check them out 🙂
Halberdleaf hibiscus/rosemallow (hibiscus laevis)
-Can grow in a couple of inches of water
-Perennial
-Height ranges from 2 to 6 feet, plant 2-3 feet apart to allow leaves to fully spread
-Beautiful, large white/red/pink flowers
-USDA zones 4-9
-Easy to dig up/control
Stream loosestrife/low loosestrife (Lythrum ovalifolium)
-Can grow in a couple inches of water
-Perennial
-Height up to 1 foot
-Small purple flowers
-USDA zones 4-10
-Easy to dig up/control
Creeping water primrose (Ludwigia peploides)
-Creeping plant, can be trained to climb the wall and will grow in several feet of water (stems extend above the water to creep/climb)
-Perennial
-Stem length up to 8 feet
-Medium, bright yellow flowers
-USDA zones 5-10
-Can spread quickly, but easy to trim back and roots are not overly tough
Water/whorled pennywort (Hydrocotyle verticillata)
-Can grow in up to 6 inches of water (so long as leaves are not submersed)
-Perennial
-Bushy, creeping – each stem is usually 10 inches long or less
-Tiny white flowers
-USDA zones 5-11
-Can be aggressive; requires regular trimming to prevent spread
Obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana) https://pondinformer.com/obedient-plant-physostegia-virginiana/
-Prefers damp soil, not standing water
-Perennial
-Height up to 4 feet
-Beautiful snapdragon-like flowers; purple, pink or white
-USDA zones 3-10
-Can spread but doesn’t generally overtake. Plant in pots of soil (these could then be placed on the water shelf to help keep the soil saturated) to prevent stolon spread
Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis) https://pondinformer.com/cardinal-flower-lobelia-cardinalis/
-Can grow in up to 2 inches of water, or moist soil
-Perennial
-Usually 2 to 4 feet tall
-Gorgeous bright red flowers
-USDA zones 2-9
-Very easy to control; does not overtake areas
Broadleaf arrowhead (Sagittaria latifolia)
-Can grow in up to a foot of water or damp soil
-Perennial
-1 to 3 feet tall
-Attractive medium/large white flowers
-USDA zones 6-9
-Can overtake other plants; can dig up roots & tubers, but best planted in a basket/pot to control spread
Delta arrowhead (Sagittaria platyphylla)
-Can grow in damp soil or less than 3 feet of water
-Perennial
-1 to 3 feet tall
-Small/medium white flowers
-USDA zones 5-9
-Can overtake via rhizomes and tubers; best planted in aquatic basket or pot to control spread
Soft/common rush (Juncus effusis)
-Grows well in up to 4 inches of water
-Perennial
-2 to 4 feet tall, grows in clumps
-No flowers
-USDA zones 2-9
-Can overtake via rhizome spread; best planted in aquatic baskets or pots to control spread
Texas rush (Juncus texanus)
-Same as soft/common rush above
Canna lily (Canna flaccida) https://pondinformer.com/canna-lily-canna-cleopatra/ (Canna flaccida is a subspecies of Canna cleopatra, so the information still applies)
-Can grow in several inches of water or moist soil
-Perennial
-3 feet tall on average
-Large flowers in a nearly endless variety of colors (yellow is most common)
-USDA zones 3-11
-Spreads via rhizomes, but not aggressively; easy to dig up roots & bulbs if needed
Pickerelweed (Pontederia cordata) https://pondinformer.com/pickerelweed-pontederia-cordata/
-Grows well in 5 inches of less of water
-Perennial
-Up to 4 feet tall
-Very attractive tall spikes of purple/blue flowers
-USDA zones 3-10
-Can spread somewhat quickly; each plant can spread up to 2 feet; plant in aquatic baskets or pots
Texas spider lily (Hymenocallis liriosme) https://pondinformer.com/texas-spider-lily-hymenocallis-liriosme/
-Can grow in up to 2 inches of water, or damp soil
-Perennial
-Up to 4 feet in height
-Very unique-looking white flowers
-USDA zones 8-10
-Does not spread out of control; easygoing growers
Alright, I’m sure that was a lot of information, but I hope that it helps! With that being said, I would place the ledge between 4 inches and 1 foot deep (I know that’s a big variation, but truly the depth depends on what types of plants you would like, either from the above list or otherwise). This will allow you to have a variety of plants that like somewhat deeper water (such as native arrowheads), but for the plants that enjoy shallow water (such as cardinal flower and rosemallow), you can place those in pots of soil (topped by substrate to hold the soil in place) or aquatic baskets at differing heights, so that they are still only in their preferred maximum of 2 to 3 inches of water.
If you’d like some more resources on native aquatic plants in Texas beyond the list that I gave above, here are a few links: http://www.austintexas.gov/watershed_protection/publications/document.cfm?id=203088
https://npsot.org/wp/story/2015/7249/
https://www.wildflower.org/collections/collection.php?collection=centex_pond
Thank you for this page, and for being so generous with advice to other commenters. I’m thinking of setting up a small container pond for some guppies. A filter and pump aren’t feasible for the set up. Can such a container pond survive if I have the right plants and only a few fish?
Thank you!
Hi DC,
Of course – thank you for reading and giving us feedback! We appreciate it!
Container ponds can be very successful, and actually very rarely have filters or pumps due to their small size. So in short, yes, your container pond should do just fine, particularly if you have some plants to help with naturally filtering and aerating. Fish don’t always do fantastically in container ponds, as they of course add to the nutrient load quite quickly, but guppies should be alright depending on the size of the container. Mosquito fish tend to do well in them, too, and as an added bonus will help eat aquatic insects and some waste.
We actually have a couple of different articles on container ponds if you’re interested in reading them for more detailed info!
Here is one on pre-built patio pond/container pond kits: https://pondinformer.com/best-patio-pond-container-kits/
And here’s our guide on how to build your own container pond (it also includes a list of plants that work well in container ponds): https://pondinformer.com/best-patio-pond-container-kits/
Thank you for this! I’ve started my container pond with a little community of white Japanese ricefish and some small bladder snails and microramshorn snails.
The fauna seem to be doing well. The plants on the other hand are doing rather poorly. Salvina that I transfer from another established pond at my workplace (a school) die out in my own pond. Water lettuce and water hyacinth, prolific in that pond do badly at my pond.
From what I’ve read this might be because of a lack of nutrients. Do you have any suggestions on what I could do to solve this problem?
Thank you in advance! Love you website.
Hi DC,
I’m glad that my previous response was helpful, and very glad that your fish and snails are doing well! Sorry to hear about the plants, though. About how many gallons is your container pond, and is it located in a sunny or shady area? Both water hyacinth and water lettuce prefer shade when grown in containers, as the water will heat up too quickly in the sun. Additionally, water lettuce is very prone to sunburn and can die easily with too much direct sunlight.
In terms of nutrients, does your container pond have an aquatic substrate or aquatic soil/sediment at the bottom? These provide some natural nutrients for the plants, and a place for any excess nutrients like fish waste to gather and be easily accessed by the plants (mainly the water hyacinth). You can also get some aquatic fertilizer, which is meant specifically for aquatic plants. Make sure to get one that is phosphate and nitrate free so as to not overload the system or harm your fish.
Hope this helps! We’re so glad that you’re enjoying the site!
Hi there! I have a lovely aviary with budgies, cockatiels and quail, but I didn’t think my aviary would be complete without a pond! I was looking at all these plants to put in my pond, and I was just wondering if any of them are toxic or poisonous for birds and the sort to ingest? Any feedback would be appreciated!
Hi Pippa,
Thanks for reading! An aviary sounds wonderful, and a pond would make a great addition!
Of the plants in this article, a couple could be toxic to birds. I’ll detail them below.
Water lettuce is toxic if ingested, whether by animals or humans. It contains a poisonous compound, calcium oxalate, which burns the mouth and may lead to kidney damage.
Sweet flag is toxic if ingested, as it contains a carcinogen called β-asarone.
Cardinal flower contains the compound lobeline, which can cause stomach upset, vomiting, and alterations in heart rhythm.
The rest of the plants should be just fine! While it’s not specifically about birds, we do have an article that details some common-ish plant species that are toxic to fish. Many of them are toxic to other organisms as well, possibly including birds. Of course feel free to do your own research to be sure, but if you’re interested here is the article: https://pondinformer.com/plants-toxic-to-pond-fish/
Hope that this helps, and let us know how your aviary pond works out!
Hi! I recently made a container pond only screened Lanai. I’m in South Florida in zone 10a. My container is 22.5 inches across. I have a pump/fountain in it. I plan to put plants & some fish in there. What plants should I use?
Hi Billie,
Any of the plants in this article would work well for you! Being in that high of a hardiness zone really opens up a lot of opportunity for you. In particular, creeping jenny does well with some water movement, but all of these plants should work just fine for you 🙂 Approximately how many gallons is your container pond going to be?
What are the slowest growing plants that are least likely to take over the whole pond and easiest to trim (even in murky water!)?
I have an unusual problem I’m hoping you can help with: I had an 8″ vase I used to root Wandering Jew periodically, that somehow got what I call ‘water fleas’ in it. I’ve kept the little colony going for at least 10 years on the north-facing windowsill above the kitchen sink here in the Rocky Mountains of Wyoming, moving them into an 11″ larger space only to discover they remained in the original small one, too, even after drying out (hardy!) so they dwell side by side, repopulating every spring like a ‘bloom’; they appear to eat by scraping the algae off the glass, & don’t appear to bother the living roots. The problem is if I don’t keep the roots in balance, what I think is ‘brown algae’ can take over, but as long as there aren’t too many roots, the water stays clear & what appears to be ‘green algae’ (or a sort-of bluish green) grows enough to feed an abundant population. I’d like to grow something in the detritus that has slowly built up on the bottom over the years, but am terrified I’ll destroy the balance, & they’ll die out. They’re a sort-of pet that gives me joy to watch, from the barely visible pinpoint newly born to the exuberant juveniles, to the lumbering pinhead-sized grandaddies. Can you suggest an option I can at least replace my Wandering Jew cuttings with, if not root in the soil-like leaves/stems on the bottom? The small container holds maybe 3C, the larger one maybe just under a 1/2 gallon. Thank you for any help you can suggest.
Hi all.
What group of plants would be best to oxygenated my belfast sink pond?
Every spring the pond fills with frogs and then, masses of frogspawn. Every year the pond turns green and stagnates just before the tadpoles become fragments and they all perish 😪.
I tried a small solar pump but it was too strong and would such them through!
Tried tying tights around the pump, but then it wasn’t powerful enough and would clog with algae and debris.
All suggestions appreciated.
Hello, I have a small antique copper trough I’d like to use for a mini pond. I’m curious if I need to coat the interior and if so, what is recommended. Some sites say yes, others say it is fine without. No fish planned.