Water-loving plants – be they submerged, floating, emergent, or semi-terrestrial – can thoroughly naturalize and add beauty to garden ponds. Apart from their aesthetic functions, they may increase the pond’s appeal to wildlife, attract a healthy diversity of pollinators, aid in the removal of excess nutrients, provide shade and food to pond inhabitants, increase the surface area on which microbes may grow, and boost water aeration rates. Aim to maintain a well-balanced density of plants, taking care to prevent the overgrowth of aggressive species, to ensure that the necessary resources remain available for all of your pond’s beneficial inhabitants.
Emergent grasses are perfect for blurring the shoreline of wildlife ponds. When found in thick rows, these create submerged and exposed mazes of foliage, where wild animals may seek cover from predators.
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A combination of wildflowers and native herbs, grown as border plants, should bring lovely seasonal color and vertical dimension to a cottage pond.
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Water irises can be planted within shallow ponds and along moist borders. Their lengthy leaf blades are beautifully contrasted by the rounded foliage of other moisture-loving plants, such as lilies and hostas.
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A thick spread of arching stems should make a fine, marginal backdrop for an ornamental pond. Place lilies, lotuses, and lower-growing grasses in other key areas of the pond for an elaborately textured finish.
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Emergent stems can be situated in the deeper sections of a pond by propping them up with pots (which, in turn, can be propped up further with bricks or stones). These should create lovely, seemingly energetic shadows on the water’s surface.
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Colonies of mature lilies look fantastic in raised, circular ponds. Over time, these send out more floating foliage to fill out the pond. Note that, for fish ponds, these may need to be cut back to make room for light and air to permeate through the water’s surface.
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Wildlife ponds often sport the most heavily planted floor and margins. When surrounded by turf and a few tufts of upright herbaceous plants, these become a haven for frogs, salamanders, waterfowl, and thirsty mammals.
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Colonies of tiny, floating plants can transform the pond’s surface, making it burst with bright shades of green during key periods of the year. These accentuate the size and shape of larger leaves and their contrasting colors.
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When thoroughly speckled with duckweed, marginal perennials, and trailing stands of herbs, a pond can look as though it belongs in a natural meadow. This design would benefit many wild animals, but the density of floating plants may compromise the survival of sensitive ornamental species.
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Add border plants with varied maximum heights to your design. For example, tall clusters of arrowhead may frame one side, whereas the slightly shorter tufts of a dwarf papyrus plant would be a smart choice for the opposing edge. Small ferns are great for filling gaps along the forefront of the pond.
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Shade-tolerant lilies and lotuses can be placed around taller emergent hydrophytes. The light-sensitive floating foliage would benefit from the dappled shade provided by the overarching foliage, preventing them from becoming scorched during the hottest months of the year.
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Bouquets of mature hydrangeas look stunning on the raised borders of ornamental ponds. They provide a multi-colored reflection that dances with the pond’s ripples. Emergent grasses and a swathe of lilies add some much-needed complexity to the water’s surface.
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If your pond’s size allows it, space out your submerged pots of lilies to draw attention to the breadth of their spread. Each circular cluster of leaves arises from a single productive lily!
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If you intend to create a more natural-looking pond surface, pots of lilies can be “randomly” arranged throughout the pond. Make sure they are adequately distanced from sources of turbulent water, which would prevent leaf growth and expansion.
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Small trees, highly textural shrubs, and trailing herbs can totally transform a medium to large-sized garden pond. Combine species with various colors, leaf shapes, and heights to set an unforgettable scene. For best results, opt for a mix of evergreen and deciduous perennials that share the same general preferences.
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Just as you might have plots of specific herbs in the garden, you may also cultivate single-species plots of hydrophytes in ponds! Separate rows of plants draw attention to the sheer size of the pond as well as the less structured appearance of its surroundings.
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Giant water lilies are iconic features of freshwater ponds found in conservatories and botanical gardens. Given their jungle-like, almost prehistoric look and the phenomenal size of their foliage, they can provide a timeless finish to the simplest of artificial ponds. For contrast, surround the giant pads with smaller water lilies.
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A centerpiece of emergent calla lilies (Zantedeschia) can give the illusion that energy and sunlight are funneled right into the middle of the pond. A colony of lower-growing ornamental grasses would beautifully offset the taller stalks.
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When cared for properly, just one or two species of lilies can gradually fill out a small pond, covering its surface in uniformly shaped foliage. During their bloom period, their floating or slightly emergent blooms are a manifestation of the pond’s enriched profile.
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When a specific mix of bordering species is grown evenly around an entire pond, a continuous, eye-catching pattern of colors can be maintained. Vivid reds, deep purples, silvery blues hues, and specks of lime green should collectively brighten anyone’s day!
Final Thoughts
When it comes to selecting plants for a pond and determining just how abundant or how assorted they should be, no rules are set in stone! Heavily planted pond designs would differ from one region to the next as there are so many species, each with its own particular growth habit and morphological features, to choose from!
Moreover, a pond can be “heavily-planted” in the sense that it contains many floating plants enclosed in a raised structure (even in the absence of border plants) or boasts a multi-species edge that pours into its deeper sections. The plants you choose – ideally native to your area – and their placement would be determined by your very own goals for cultivating a miniature freshwater ecosystem.
