Ferns are some of the most versatile and hardy plants for shady areas and indoor spaces. Their low-maintenance needs, overall longevity, and tolerance for partial light make them fantastic additions to patio gardens, windowsills, and small balconies.
In spaces that have limitations when it comes to substrate richness and natural irrigation, it makes sense to grow ferns in pots and containers. Fortunately, despite their tendency to be associated with trees or moisture-rich substrates, ferns can easily thrive when their roots are prevented from spreading freely. Even epiphytic ferns, which usually occur on trees and have aerial roots, can become well-established in pots.
As ferns typically have shallow root systems, it is best to plant them in shallow containers with drainage holes. Clay or plastic pots can be used, but keep in mind that they will need to be filled with the appropriate substrate or growth medium. The type of container can influence the amount of water your fern will need. To promote growth rates, make sure the roots have ample space to spread.
1) Western maidenhair fern (Adiantum aleuticum)
Known for the outstanding features of its fronds, which tend to arise in a fan-shaped orientation, the western maidenhair fern is a semi-evergreen perennial. It is a great choice for pots or containers because it rarely grows to more than 30 inches (76.2 cm) tall and wide. Moreover, its roots grow exceptionally well in a variety of moist yet well-draining substrates.
When situated in partial shade, the fronds of the western maidenhair fern produce eye-catching, bright green leaflets. As these are borne on wiry, dark purple midribs, the contrast accentuates their color. The fronds gracefully arch outward, making them appear incredibly light when they are suspended from pots and hanging containers. They should be situated in humid areas or close to water features because they benefit from soft sprays of water.
2) Eastern hayscented fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula)
The eastern hayscented fern is a deciduous species that naturally occurs in the acidic substrates of open woods. It is set apart by its charming rosettes of triangular and lacy fronds. As suggested by its common name, its leaves emit a sweet, hay-like scent when they are crushed or dried. Unlike the fronds of many tropical ferns, those of this temperate species can tolerate full sun exposure in the presence of consistent moisture.
As the hayscented fern grows to a maximum height of just 2 feet (61 cm), a moderately sized pot should suffice. Restricting the roots within a pot or container is a great way to control their spread. If this fern is rooted directly into the ground, it has the tendency to quickly produce colonies due to its vigorous rhizomes. Tolerant of a wide range of substrate conditions, the rhizomes can survive exposure to dry and rocky soils.
3) Boston fern (Nephrolepis exaltata)
One of the most commonly grown ornamental ferns in indoor locations, the Boston fern is definitely one of your best options for container cultivation. This hardy plant produces evergreen fronds that grow up to an impressive 98 inches (2.5 meters) long in optimal conditions. Of course, if it is grown indoors and restricted to within a small pot, it will rarely grow to more than a few inches tall.
In the wild, the Boston fern may occur as a terrestrial or an epiphytic plant. Its highly adaptable root system favors regularly moistened substrates, such as those found in or around swamps, floodplains, and humid forests. Its soil should be kept moderately damp, but take extra care to make sure it does not remain soggy. Hanging baskets or raised containers cast in partial shade should bring out the best features of this award-winning species.
4) Autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora)
Commonly called the autumn fern or the Japanese sword fern, D. erythrosora is an attractive woodland species. In the wild, it favors moist conditions in forested hills and mountains. Highly adaptable, its roots are healthiest when they are exposed to humus-rich substrates. When they are well-established, they can also persist in fairly dry conditions. If you require a fern that can survive through periods of neglect, this may be the right one for you!
The autumn fern is suitable for cultivation in containers or pots due to its moderate size and ease of propagation. A recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit, it can add fantastic coppery hues to locations with partial shade. A clump former, it produces leaves that rarely reach a height of more than 2 feet (61 cm) tall. If it is situated in a pot, its roots will need to be generously watered and the soil must be kept lightly moist.
5) Squirrel’s foot fern (Davallia spp.)
Various species under the Davallia genus are referred to as squirrel’s or rabbit’s foot fern because of the fur-like mats of hair on their creeping rhizomes. In the wild, these ornamental ferns typically occur as epiphytic plants. Their aerial roots cling to the surfaces of trees and rocks, drawing in moisture from the air and from beads of rain. In the home or garden, this fern is usually restricted to containers that allow its fuzzy roots to splay out and cascade.
Roots of the squirrel’s foot fern may occasionally permeate into the surface of substrates, but they tend to prefer being exposed. A peat-based mix should aid in the roots’ accumulation of nutrients. They can also be placed in a moss basket, with rhizomes pinned to the outer surface as they spread. The delicate fronds, on the other hand, need to be exposed to dappled or partial light. They thrive in high humidity and should not be disturbed too often.
6) Variegated Indian holly fern (Arachniodes simplicior ‘Variegata’)
The variegated Indian holly fern is perfectly suited for cultivation in pots and containers. This lovely cultivar, which possesses yellowish hues along the base of each pinnule, looks as though it has a singular bright stripe along the length of each frond. Upon close inspection, you’ll find that its fronds are deeply subdivided into feathery leaflets with serrated outer margins.
This colorful fern is best grown in protected areas to promote the longevity of its delicate fronds. As long as they are well-ventilated and filled with well-draining, humus-rich soil, their pots can be situated in partial to full shade. Growing this fern in movable containers is generally advised in cooler, temperate regions. Transfer pots into a warm, indoor location to encourage the leaves to persist and grow through winter.
7) Lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina)
As suggested by this fern’s common name, its fronds have a graceful, feminine, and elegant appearance. Arising from a central crown, the yellow-green fronds gracefully arch outward to create a balanced and highly textural rosette. Deciduous, they grow to a full length of about 35 inches (89 cm). Of course, the length of the leaves is largely influenced by the condition of the roots and the size of the pot in which they are situated.
As the lady fern thrives best in areas with high humidity levels, its container may need to be placed close to a water feature or in a room with a humidifier. Regular misting of the leaves may also improve their quality and aid in the production of new fronds. Once potted lady ferns are able to fill out 12-inch (30-cm) pots, they will rarely need to be repotted more than once every 2 – 3 years. Make sure to wait until they have become rootbound before transplanting them into slightly larger pots.
8) Hart’s tongue fern (Asplenium scolopendrium)
Unlike many of the plants listed above, hart’s tongue fern produces fronds that are not distinctly divided. Instead, they are strap-shaped and whole, and tend to have crinkled margins. As its common name suggests, its leaves resemble the appearance of a tongue, particularly that of a “hart” (synonymous with stag). Their bright green color keeps them looking fresh and lively all throughout the year.
Another recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit, hart’s tongue fern is often prized by collectors because of its versatility and hardiness. In hardiness zones 5 – 9, well-established specimens persist through winter and can serve as points of interest when other ferns have died back. Despite its tolerance for the cold, it can easily be mistaken for a tropical plant!
For best results, make sure the fronds of this species are kept in partly or fully shaded areas. In fact, this fern is so partial to shade that some of its wild populations thrive close to sinks and caves. When exposed to direct sun, the fronds may turn yellow and exhibit signs of scorching. When they are provided with shade, they maintain their deep green coloration.
9) Soft shield fern (Polystichum setiferum)
The soft shield fern, also known as the hedge fern, is an ideal species for pots and containers because its fronds arise in tufts. When properly centered in an adequately-sized pot, the fronds can evenly arise and gently curve outward to cascade over the pot’s edges. When viewed from the top, this ornamental fern may bring the image of a whirlwind to mind. However, it does come in many cultivars with slight variations in leaf form and orientation.
When grown in full shade, the fronds of the soft shield fern maintain a bright to deep green color. Those placed under full sun may become yellow over time. Containers of this species should be placed in partly shaded areas. They should be regularly watered throughout the growth period.
Note that well-draining soil is an absolute must as the retention of excess moisture can lead to root and crown rot. If you’d like to encourage your soft shield fern to produce new fronds each year, aim to cut down older fronds from February to March.
10) Royal fern (Osmunda regalis)
One of the most popular woodland ferns, O. regalis is a deciduous species with a multitude of uses. Apart from adding diversity and color to gardens, it produces roots that can be used in the production of “osmunda fiber”. Once one of the most in-demand forms of potting media for orchids and other epiphytes, this special fiber has become far too costly to produce. Nowadays, royal ferns are often strictly grown as ornamentals.
The royal fern can quickly become well-established in pots with moist and well-draining substrates. When situated under full sun, its roots may even tolerate wet soils. In optimal conditions, healthy specimens should produce their fertile fronds in springs. Unlike the sterile fronds, which are bright green, fertile fronds are brown because they are densely covered in clusters of sporangia.
Some Tips for Repotting Ferns
Potted ferns can continue to produce new foliage and grow to their maximum size if they are repotted correctly. It’s generally important to wait until ferns look as though they are spilling out of the pot before transplanting them. Keep in mind that some ferns can benefit from being rootbound before being moved into slightly larger pots. Below are some tips that should help you maintain the quality of your potted ferns year after year.
- For some rapidly growing species, repotting should be done a few times per year to re-invigorate the root system and to encourage the growth of new roots and fronds.
- Some ferns grow rapidly whereas others grow very slowly, so it’s best to check the condition of the roots before repotting. If there is still ample space for roots to spread, give your plant more time to fill out the space in the pot.
- You might opt to transplant ferns to plastic pots or containers if you prefer to water them less or if they look as though they are always parched. Plastic, non-porous containers help with moisture retention.
- Make sure any new pots are free of chemicals or pathogens.
- New containers (including plastic ones) with drainage holes are recommended, even for hanging pots, to prevent the roots from having diseases due to excess moisture in the soil.
- Avoid frequently dividing ferns and planting small divisions in fresh pots in order to propagate them quickly. Ferns prefer to be neglected for some time. As long as they are provided with ample moisture, they should begin to produce new offsets. Wait for these to reach a good size before separating them from the mother plant.
